Showing posts with label Lightweight Techno Talk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lightweight Techno Talk. Show all posts

May 11, 2017

Lightweight Techno Talk: Looking beyond the big ring and those small sprockets

Over the past decades, the number of gears on road bikes has steadily increased. Current groupsets now provide up to 22 gear combinations produced by two front chainrings and 11 rear cogs. To get the most out of your gears, it serves to pay attention to the gear ratios produced by the combination of the chainrings with the rear cassette and tailoring them to suit your riding needs.


A road groupset can offer a variety of gear ratios ranging from about 1.21 to 4.81 in increments of 0.15-0.40. Rather than trying to understand the significance of gear ratios directly, they can be transformed into more meaningful values in one of two ways.

The first method is to relate the gear ratio to wheel size by multiplying the gear ratio by the diameter of the wheel. The resulting value, gear inches, provides the diameter of a wheel that has a circumference equivalent to the distance a geared bike will travel with one turn of the cranks and the chosen gear ratio.

The second method, meters of development, is calculated by multiplying the gear ratio by the circumference of the wheel. The resulting value, meters of development, provides the meters a wheel will travel with one turn of the cranks and the choosen gear ratio.


In practice, road riders typically don’t pay much attention to gear ratios due to the abundance of choices available to them. However, there is still considerable value in fine-tuning the range of gear ratios at your disposal to maximise their utility.

So far for the theory as understood today and back to the classic lightweight stuff:

Do you remember Half-Step?

Well, it is a ratio formula where the average of the percentage of difference between your rear cogs is calculated, and your largest two chainrings are set up to provide half the average percentage of the rear. This provides two interlaced gear ranges and eliminates duplicate gears so commonly found on cranksets that have 10 tooth jumps between the large rings. It was used when front derailleurs could only handle a small step between chainrings and when rear cogsets only had a small number of sprockets.


There are some downsides to half-step; not many, but some.

First, you should get rid of your indexed shifting at the front derailleur, because half-step gearing with 6 or more sprockets creates a situation in which chainline is not straight and the chain might be deflected at too great an angle. But if you need indexing you are probably at the wrong site

Second it is also necessary to set your front derailleur slightly higher than factory specs

Third to step sequentially through the gear ratios requires a simultaneous front and rear shift on every other gear change. This style is not available off the shelf.

A variation of Half-step is called half-step with granny in which three chainrings with half-step differences between the larger two and multi-range differences between the smaller two are paired with a cogset modified for half-step gearing. This general arrangement is suitable for touring with most gear changes being made using the rear derailleur and occasional fine tuning using the two large chainrings. The small chainring called the granny gear is a bailout for handling steeper hills, This style is not available off the shelf also.


But please be aware that besides gearing performance is also affected by rolling resistance and air resistance. Rolling resistance can vary by a factor of 10 or more depending on type and dimensions of tire and the tire pressure and air resistance increases greatly and most significantly as speed increases.

How to individually update your freewheel and sprockets?

First you need to know whether single sprockets are available and interchangeable on your brands freewheel. Second you need to know the mounitng methodology of your freewheel. Both differs from brand to brand.


For those brands mentioned in the table above sprockets are interchangeable but are no longer in production and might not be offered very often. Thus you need to observe those portals in which old bicycle stuff is offered.




In order understand what sprocket terminology you will find with the Maillard brand and which ones you might be able to change to the highly sought after alloy/ dural or sometimes also called zyrcal version please have a look on the following pictures




As you can see those rare dural sprockets will only fit on 5 up to 6 speed freewheel bodies officially but might be used also to update any compact 6 or speed freewheel with exeption of the completion sprockets MC) that needs to be of the steel type but will reduce the freewheels weight still a lot.



Happy sprocket switching!

Lightweight Techno Talk: Rim a hub a ding dong - period correct wheels for your lightweight - Part 2

Of course a good pair of wheels will improve the performance of any bike (apart from a good and strong pair of legs and good health). And most cyclists will agree on that without having physics in mind because everybody should have noticed this improvement by his own.

On other hand you want a period correct wheelset for your bike, right?

What kind of rims you should go for you might find in part 1 of this article. Leaves us today with the question about those period correct hubs.

For those of you interested to see that there was life before Tullio re-invented the turn of the world I suggest to have a look at the Fratelli Brivio hub article as well.

Since each country had it´s unique champions some manufacturers are more known then others making their hubs the only possible sought after stars in that time and today and leaving others fairly obscure to the masses. On other hand there are hughe regional differences resulting in very different setups for GB, France, Italy and Germany.

Whilst french riders of the 20th and 30th sweare on hubs made by Pellissier, Atom or Exceltoo their british companions would have gone wild for a set of Harden hubs or a set of those made by British Hub Company, the italian peleton luckily went with hubs from Gnutti and Fratelli Brivio and german riders would have been spinning their wheels with hubs from Fichtel & Sachs, Weco, Union or Wippermann.

First we want to have a look at the britsh scene of that gone by days and the hubs they were familiar with:

  • British Hub Company Airlite (Continental) were introduced in the 30th, made out of a chrome barrel with alloy flanges became the mainstay of the british lightweight scene as long as quality and not the price was the decision point with large flange hubs beeing more popular in post war times than small flange ones. Available one side free, double fixed and free/ fixed and with axles for quick release skewers and those for track nuts and anodized in various colors too. (period correct up to 1960)


  • British Hub Company Solite were introduced in the 30th, made out of a chrome barrel with alloy flanges also.  Available as small flange hubs only but again one side free, double fixed and free/ fixed (period correct up to 1960)
  • Bayliss & Wiley, available in both large and small-flange, are looking very similar to Airlites but lower in quality, again available one side free, double fixed and free/ fixed (period correct between 1945- 1960)


  • Bayliss Wiley very cool and early "cassette" body freehub Type Hub. Sprockets are 1/8" fixed and the threaded body turns like a freehub unit. Cover behind sprockets keeps dirt out of the ratcheting unit. I´ve seen some with Flip-Top oiler in the center of the barrel, some without. In addition I own one of these hubs marked Osgear that was sold together with the famous OsGear derailleur. (period correct 1935 up to 1950)




  • Harden Hub Comapny Bacon Slicers, very cool and rare large flange hub with annular bearings. Most of these are single fixed but a rarer gear-sided only or double fixed also turns up at rare occasions. Same for those gold anodized ones. (period correct 1935 up to 1955)


  • Harden small flange (Bacon Slicers) again with annular bearings. Most of these are double fixed but available single fixed and fixed/free also. (period correct 1935 up to 1955)


  • Harden Hub Company Flyweight large flange only hubs with cup and cone bearings available fixed, double fixed and fixed/ free (period correct 1946 up to 1960)

  • Blumfields all alloy hub, available in both small and high flange with grease nippes in center of the barrel and very attractive engraced makers marks. Amongst the best hubs that could be sourced in that time. Available single fixed, double fixed and fixed/ free. (period correct 1940 upt to 1955)

  • BSA small flange hubs made of steel with oiler hole and oiler clip in center of the barrel. A low priced hub often seen on early and low priced club racers. (period correct 1940 up to 1965)
  • SUN Supralite high flange hub made of alloy, a Normandy Pepperpot copy, often seen on budget production racers ot that time (period correct 1960 up to 1975)
  • VEW Continental high flange, higher quality copy of the Normandy Pepperpot (period correct 1960 up to 1975)


  • VEW Light high flange, very similar to their Continental hub (period correct 1960 up to 1975)

  • Resillion high flange hub made of steel, a pricey Normandy Pepperpot copy often seen on low budget production club racers and lightweights. (period correct 1960 up to 1970)
  • Viscount Lambert high flange hub, a medium quality copy of Maillard/ Campagnolo hubs (period correct 1970 up to 1985)

  • Royce high flange hub made of alloy, a rare but high quality Maillard/ Campagnolo copy with annular bearings. (period correct 1975 up to 1980)




Stay tuned for part 3 and others.

May 7, 2017

Lightweight Techno Talk: Rim a hub a ding dong - period correct wheels for your lightweight - Part 1

Of course a good pair of wheels will improve the performance of any bike (apart from a good and strong pair of legs). And most cyclists will agree on that whithout having physics in mind because everybody should have noticed this improvement by his own.

On other hand you want a period correct wheelset for your bike, right?

Well, what came first? Hen or the egg?

In case of rims the wooden ones came definetly first, followed by the steel ones, the dural ones filled with wood and at least the aluminium and the carbon ones we know today.

Wooden rims are harder to build with, they require regular maintenance, they are more expensive and they flex a bit. However, if you want a traditional looking and period correct wheel for your pre 1940 lightweight, wooden rims are a marvellous move, something that we should be happy of beeing still produced today in italy by CBT or Chisallo for instance.

Just spend some time to watch on how wooden rims are made by Cerchi Ghisallo today






But what kind of rims should be your choise for your period correct build?

I would go for wooden ones or so called gendarme clincher rims (periode correct up to 1930) made of steel for any kind of pre war manufactured lightweights.

If you plan to re-build a pre war british lightweight I would prefer french made America Fairbanks imported to Britain by Constrictor (many times those rims were badged Constrictor as well) for tubulars tires (periode correct up to 1955) or Dunlop Special Lightweight chrome plated steel rims for clinchers (periode correct up to 1965).

Their rarer sisters Dunlop Stainless Special Lightweights (periode correct up to 1955) are a nice alternative but are prone to crack around their spoke holes.

At the middle of the 30th they started to produce rims made of dural. Those were first used with randonneuse bicycles in size 650B and later managed to swap to the speed cycling section too. The first ones in Germany, who get patented and started to produce those alloy rims were Altenburger in 1936 and Grünert followed by swiss Weinmann and Scheeren,

Weinmann and Scheeren are the ones with balsa wood inlets (periode correct up to 1960), the Grünert ones were used with eastern german Diamant lightweights up to the end of this SED dictatorship and oppression of freedom, privacy and democracy (periode correct up to 1989 with Diamant, up to 1961 with others).

In UK it was Constrictor who started with alloy rims first and it doesn´t even matter if you go for their ASP or solid version (periode correct up to 1960). Those have been the riderss choise of that period in UK, are very tough but never truly true as the riveted washers in the rim tend to hike a bit.

San Giorgio clincher or sprint rims are a very rare find but fit on lightweights coming of the period between 1940 and 1955.

Besides that and because their shape didn´t change dramatically with decades you can go for many sprint/ tubular rims made by Fiamme and Mavic. Those can be used for any build up to 1970 with ease and may also be an easy to source substitute for old Ambrosio and Dural sprint rims made in pre war italy.

Stay tuned for Part 2 dealing with hubs of those days.




































Oct 20, 2015

Lightweight Techno Talk: How to identify a genuine Colnago

Colnago Lovers please be aware - many fakes out there!

While I was searching for a Seventies Colnago Super I came accross many auctions, adverts and posts where people praised their lovely Colnagos with extraordinary and mostly highly ambitious asking prices.

 

Recognizing that many of these offers were dealing with faked Colnagos was a pain.

You can tell a lot about Bianchi (and their prices or their quality) but fakes you won´t come along amongst them.

Let´s clarify what makes a Colnago a genuine Colnago:

Anytime you´re looking at a frame with more than two brazed on cable guides on the top tube it´s not a genuine Colnago.

But please keep in mind that these cable guides on top tube were optional prior to 1977. Thus  braze-ons might be there on earlier frames as well; but always only two of them.

Additionally frames named Colnago Sports were partially produced in Italy for the german cycling dealer Brüggelmann within the eighties and sold as their house brand. Ernesto Colnago  initiated a legal battle regarding the name conflict and won.

Thus please be aware: None of the Colnago Sport bicycles is a genuine Colnago.

Finally I came along the following very helpfull list of frame specifications in order to match your frame to something like the Colnago time line and found these hints very helpfull in order to recognize fakes as well as genuine Colnagos.

Specifications for 1968

  • "Super" decal on chain stay
  • Fork crown (sand cast) with two holes in the points at each side
  • Fork tangs wide, no cutouts
  • Club cutouts in all three lugs
  • Bottom bracket shell with drilled holes (eight in circle plus one in center)
Specifications for 1970
  • Fork crown (investment cast) semi-sloping, flat front and back with two holes in
  • the points at each side
  • "Playing card" club decal graphics (inspired by 1970 Milano-San Remo victory)
Specifications for 1971
  • Fork crown with clubs in top and two holes in each side
  • Fork tangs narrow, no cutouts (or rarely no tangs)
  • Club cutouts in all three lugs but club in lower head lug is now larger
  • Hole in lower point of seat lug (last year)
  • Bottom bracket shell with club cutout
Specifications for 1972
  • Black Club/COLNAGO decal on head tube/seat tube (two seat tube Worlds bands) and
  • COLNAGO on down tube
  • Fork tangs with two holes (or very rarely three holes tangs or no tangs)
  • Derailleur cable guide braze-ons top of bottom bracket shell
  • Water bottle braze-ons on downtube
Specifications for 1973
  • Wreath seat tube decal with Worlds band at top and bottom
  • Fork crown with clubs on top but no holes in each side
  • Fork tangs with club cutouts (or rarely two hole tangs or no tangs)
  • Club cutout in lower head lug only
  • Introduction of the Super Pantografata
Specifications for 1974
  • Shifter braze-ons on down tube (option before this)
Specifications for 1975
  • Mexico model introduced
  • Diagonal Worlds band added behind black Club/COLNAGO head tube decal
  • Diagonal Worlds band with yellow Club/COLNAGO head tube decal used for one year
  • Vertical COLNAGO seat tube decal with single diagonal Worlds band at top

Specifications for 1976
  • Fork crown with COLNAGO added to clubs on top
  • Short Campagnolo or COLNAGO dropouts
Specifications for 1977
  • Fork crown with shallow triangles cut into back (no recessed brake bolt)
  • Top tube brake cable guide braze-ons (an option before this)
Specifications for 1978
  • Fork crown for recessed brake bolt with shallow triangles cut into back
  • Brake bridge for recessed brake bolt
Specifications for 1980
  • Fluted seat stay caps engraved COLNAGO and straight seat stays (no longer biconical shape)
  • Brake bridge with cast square boss for recessed brake bolt
Specifications for 1981
  • Chain stay bridge is small spool shape (no longer tube shape)
Specifications for 1982
  • Chain stays stamped COLNAGO on sides
  • Derailleur cable routing moved to underside of bottom bracket
Specifications for 1983
  • Aerodynamic fork crown
Following these specification guidelines


 the shown Colnago Super is identified to be a genuine Colnago Super dating from 1978.