May 27, 2017

1953 - Lyonaise constructeur lightweight - Follis Loire Ocean

Follis, established originally in 1903 in the suburbs of Turin, Italy by Joseph Follis, moved to Lyon, France in 1922 after Mussolini took over power in Italy. They were known for their artisan approach, many patents and as a real part of the french constructeurs scene, gaining a particular reputation mostly for its exceptional finish, quality and reliability and in special for their tandems.

More on Follis history, its ranking in the constructeurs scene and a Follis Randonneur  you may find here.


Although it was possible to buy direct from Follis, they also used a network of distributors like Pithioud Cycles, a shop in Lyon. Some of you that are more familiar with the french constructeurs and randonneur scene may remember le sacoches Pithioud also. Their canvas pannier bags were very similar in kind and optics to the ones made by Sologne for instance.


My best guess is that this bike dates from the early up to the middle of the 1950s, when Jean Forestier was riding for the Follis-Dunlop team to a couple of stage victories and a couple of days wearing the yellow jersey in Le Tour. In addition Follis apparently started back than to use the headbadge seen on the steering tube on this bike.









Stay tuned to see how this lovely aged frame will be preserved to a charming and really aged ready-to-go racing bike.

May 16, 2017

Lightweight Techno Talk: About species-appropriate Lightweight Transport

The true enthusiast, of course, wants to shine not only with period correct wool jerseys at those events for historic lightweights, but also to transport his racing bikes scene correct.


In the moment of saying that I´m not quite sure if this falls into the category of Lightweight Techno Talk or into the category Cycling Gadgets.


Of course, transporting your classic lightweight partially disassembled in the trunk of your car or on any modern bicycle roof rack is possible. But do you know about something more beautiful than to have the right material here also?


But what kind of roof racks are needed, which ones are period correct ans where can we get those?




Luckily I was able to acquire a special roof rack made in the 70ies or 80ies as used by amateur riders, clubs and small teams.



May 11, 2017

Lightweight Techno Talk: Looking beyond the big ring and those small sprockets

Over the past decades, the number of gears on road bikes has steadily increased. Current groupsets now provide up to 22 gear combinations produced by two front chainrings and 11 rear cogs. To get the most out of your gears, it serves to pay attention to the gear ratios produced by the combination of the chainrings with the rear cassette and tailoring them to suit your riding needs.


A road groupset can offer a variety of gear ratios ranging from about 1.21 to 4.81 in increments of 0.15-0.40. Rather than trying to understand the significance of gear ratios directly, they can be transformed into more meaningful values in one of two ways.

The first method is to relate the gear ratio to wheel size by multiplying the gear ratio by the diameter of the wheel. The resulting value, gear inches, provides the diameter of a wheel that has a circumference equivalent to the distance a geared bike will travel with one turn of the cranks and the chosen gear ratio.

The second method, meters of development, is calculated by multiplying the gear ratio by the circumference of the wheel. The resulting value, meters of development, provides the meters a wheel will travel with one turn of the cranks and the choosen gear ratio.


In practice, road riders typically don’t pay much attention to gear ratios due to the abundance of choices available to them. However, there is still considerable value in fine-tuning the range of gear ratios at your disposal to maximise their utility.

So far for the theory as understood today and back to the classic lightweight stuff:

Do you remember Half-Step?

Well, it is a ratio formula where the average of the percentage of difference between your rear cogs is calculated, and your largest two chainrings are set up to provide half the average percentage of the rear. This provides two interlaced gear ranges and eliminates duplicate gears so commonly found on cranksets that have 10 tooth jumps between the large rings. It was used when front derailleurs could only handle a small step between chainrings and when rear cogsets only had a small number of sprockets.


There are some downsides to half-step; not many, but some.

First, you should get rid of your indexed shifting at the front derailleur, because half-step gearing with 6 or more sprockets creates a situation in which chainline is not straight and the chain might be deflected at too great an angle. But if you need indexing you are probably at the wrong site

Second it is also necessary to set your front derailleur slightly higher than factory specs

Third to step sequentially through the gear ratios requires a simultaneous front and rear shift on every other gear change. This style is not available off the shelf.

A variation of Half-step is called half-step with granny in which three chainrings with half-step differences between the larger two and multi-range differences between the smaller two are paired with a cogset modified for half-step gearing. This general arrangement is suitable for touring with most gear changes being made using the rear derailleur and occasional fine tuning using the two large chainrings. The small chainring called the granny gear is a bailout for handling steeper hills, This style is not available off the shelf also.


But please be aware that besides gearing performance is also affected by rolling resistance and air resistance. Rolling resistance can vary by a factor of 10 or more depending on type and dimensions of tire and the tire pressure and air resistance increases greatly and most significantly as speed increases.

How to individually update your freewheel and sprockets?

First you need to know whether single sprockets are available and interchangeable on your brands freewheel. Second you need to know the mounitng methodology of your freewheel. Both differs from brand to brand.


For those brands mentioned in the table above sprockets are interchangeable but are no longer in production and might not be offered very often. Thus you need to observe those portals in which old bicycle stuff is offered.




In order understand what sprocket terminology you will find with the Maillard brand and which ones you might be able to change to the highly sought after alloy/ dural or sometimes also called zyrcal version please have a look on the following pictures




As you can see those rare dural sprockets will only fit on 5 up to 6 speed freewheel bodies officially but might be used also to update any compact 6 or speed freewheel with exeption of the completion sprockets MC) that needs to be of the steel type but will reduce the freewheels weight still a lot.



Happy sprocket switching!

Lightweight Techno Talk: Rim a hub a ding dong - period correct wheels for your lightweight - Part 2

Of course a good pair of wheels will improve the performance of any bike (apart from a good and strong pair of legs and good health). And most cyclists will agree on that without having physics in mind because everybody should have noticed this improvement by his own.

On other hand you want a period correct wheelset for your bike, right?

What kind of rims you should go for you might find in part 1 of this article. Leaves us today with the question about those period correct hubs.

For those of you interested to see that there was life before Tullio re-invented the turn of the world I suggest to have a look at the Fratelli Brivio hub article as well.

Since each country had it´s unique champions some manufacturers are more known then others making their hubs the only possible sought after stars in that time and today and leaving others fairly obscure to the masses. On other hand there are hughe regional differences resulting in very different setups for GB, France, Italy and Germany.

Whilst french riders of the 20th and 30th sweare on hubs made by Pellissier, Atom or Exceltoo their british companions would have gone wild for a set of Harden hubs or a set of those made by British Hub Company, the italian peleton luckily went with hubs from Gnutti and Fratelli Brivio and german riders would have been spinning their wheels with hubs from Fichtel & Sachs, Weco, Union or Wippermann.

First we want to have a look at the britsh scene of that gone by days and the hubs they were familiar with:

  • British Hub Company Airlite (Continental) were introduced in the 30th, made out of a chrome barrel with alloy flanges became the mainstay of the british lightweight scene as long as quality and not the price was the decision point with large flange hubs beeing more popular in post war times than small flange ones. Available one side free, double fixed and free/ fixed and with axles for quick release skewers and those for track nuts and anodized in various colors too. (period correct up to 1960)


  • British Hub Company Solite were introduced in the 30th, made out of a chrome barrel with alloy flanges also.  Available as small flange hubs only but again one side free, double fixed and free/ fixed (period correct up to 1960)
  • Bayliss & Wiley, available in both large and small-flange, are looking very similar to Airlites but lower in quality, again available one side free, double fixed and free/ fixed (period correct between 1945- 1960)


  • Bayliss Wiley very cool and early "cassette" body freehub Type Hub. Sprockets are 1/8" fixed and the threaded body turns like a freehub unit. Cover behind sprockets keeps dirt out of the ratcheting unit. I´ve seen some with Flip-Top oiler in the center of the barrel, some without. In addition I own one of these hubs marked Osgear that was sold together with the famous OsGear derailleur. (period correct 1935 up to 1950)




  • Harden Hub Comapny Bacon Slicers, very cool and rare large flange hub with annular bearings. Most of these are single fixed but a rarer gear-sided only or double fixed also turns up at rare occasions. Same for those gold anodized ones. (period correct 1935 up to 1955)


  • Harden small flange (Bacon Slicers) again with annular bearings. Most of these are double fixed but available single fixed and fixed/free also. (period correct 1935 up to 1955)


  • Harden Hub Company Flyweight large flange only hubs with cup and cone bearings available fixed, double fixed and fixed/ free (period correct 1946 up to 1960)

  • Blumfields all alloy hub, available in both small and high flange with grease nippes in center of the barrel and very attractive engraced makers marks. Amongst the best hubs that could be sourced in that time. Available single fixed, double fixed and fixed/ free. (period correct 1940 upt to 1955)

  • BSA small flange hubs made of steel with oiler hole and oiler clip in center of the barrel. A low priced hub often seen on early and low priced club racers. (period correct 1940 up to 1965)
  • SUN Supralite high flange hub made of alloy, a Normandy Pepperpot copy, often seen on budget production racers ot that time (period correct 1960 up to 1975)
  • VEW Continental high flange, higher quality copy of the Normandy Pepperpot (period correct 1960 up to 1975)


  • VEW Light high flange, very similar to their Continental hub (period correct 1960 up to 1975)

  • Resillion high flange hub made of steel, a pricey Normandy Pepperpot copy often seen on low budget production club racers and lightweights. (period correct 1960 up to 1970)
  • Viscount Lambert high flange hub, a medium quality copy of Maillard/ Campagnolo hubs (period correct 1970 up to 1985)

  • Royce high flange hub made of alloy, a rare but high quality Maillard/ Campagnolo copy with annular bearings. (period correct 1975 up to 1980)




Stay tuned for part 3 and others.